Today’s post is 1700 words, 26 photos, and an 8-minute read. Enjoy
Hi everyone,
This week I’ll take you to the area around Cologne, then on a long trip to Munich, where we spent the last five days of our trip to Germany.
If you missed Part 1 or any or all of my posts from Vienna and Germany, see the list below.
Vienna here and here; Regensburg, here and here; Neckargemund; Mosel Valley here and here; The Rhine River and Bonn; Julich here and here; Cologne, and Munich here, here, here, and here.
THE TRAIL TO JÜLICH
It was drizzling when we left Bonn, headed for the small city of Jülich, about 50 miles west of Cologne, near the border with the Netherlands and Belgium. Jülich, with a population of over 34,000 people, was organized by the Romans in the first century AD. Thus, it has a long history and is known for its impressive citadel, a star-shaped fortress of strategic importance. Given its location it suffered heavy destruction during World War II. It was carefully rebuilt, blending modern design with its historic roots. Agriculture plays a central role in the economy of Jülich with rich soil and a gently rolling terrain. Wheat, barley, sugar beets, and canola are predominant crops. Jülich is also recognized for its role in scientific research, hosting one of Europe’s leading research institutions.
As we drew closer to Jülich, we noticed a large, tree-covered mountain rising out of the nearly flat countryside. That’s because it’s an artificial mountain created by the overburden from the nearby lignite coal mine. In the photo below, you can see about one-third of the mountain in the background. It rises about 360 feet (110 meters) above the plain. It’s huge! I’ll take you to the mine in a future post; that’s a sight to see.
MANHEIM
Our first destination for the day was the small village of Manheim, spelled with one small n, not two. The German city of Mannheim, at the confluence of the Neckar and Upper Rhine Rivers, has two small n’s and has a population of over 300,000. This is Manheim is essentially a ghost town.
Off in the distance, we noticed what appeared to be power plants with cooling towers emitting steam. I believe they were.
Wayne and I were stunned when we pulled off the highway and found buildings occupied by — no one. There were a couple of houses that looked like someone lived there, as evidenced by a parked car. The once stately church was boarded up, surrounded by a tall fence and large warning signs in German. The one word we understood was “Verboten!” 
KERPEN
I was struck by this monument on the boulevard just outside the cemetery. It is a Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Kerpren. The names inscribed on the monument list the names of 153 Jews from Kerpen murdered at Auschwitz. Very few Jews from Kerpen survived the war by hiding or were in mixed marriages. Another sobering reminder of the civilian casualties of war. 
Cologne Cathedral
When we exited the station, the Cathedral was the first thing we saw. Wayne and I stood there raising our eyes to the tall spires. The place is massive and majestic. It is hard to find the right words to describe it. The Cologne Cathedral is the tallest twin-spired church in the world and the third tallest in Europe. 
The vast nave draws the eye upward to soaring ribbed vaults and slender columns, while light pours through intricate stained-glass windows.
RWE MINE
After finding the viewing platform along a side road, I gasped when I had my first look at the open-pit coal mine. Below is a panorama and a video taken with my iPhone. It’s big. According to information I found online, the mine is 7.5 miles (12 km) long and nearly 3 miles (5 km) wide. At the deepest point, the mine is nearly 1500 feet (450 meters) deep. These stats make it one of the largest open-pit mines in the world.
Please note the solar arrays in previously mined areas. RWE is gradually transitioning to renewable energy to replace coal as a fuel for generation. Also note the steam from the nearby power plant.
DACHAU
It was a cool, cloudy morning when we pulled into the parking lot of Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site in the charming, tranquil town of Dachau. One has to wonder and ask: “Did the residents know what was going on at this camp?” They had to have noticed the trucks and trains delivering people to the camp on the edge of the city. They must have seen the corpses carted away to the camp cemetery. Maybe a few expressed their opposition to what was going on in the camp, at their own peril. Fear and prejudice kept most silent. Today, it is impossible to ignore.
The iron gate with the inscription, Arbeit macht frei (Work sets you free or Work makes you free). This slogan was cynical, deceptive, and a cruel lie meant to give prisoners false hope.
The large bronze sculpture, called the International Monument, features tangled human figures entangled in barbed wire. It represents the suffering and death of the victims of the Holocaust.
I was struck by the bouquet in front of former barrack 28. A spot of beauty in the midst of sorrow and hardship.
The Jewish Memorial was designed to resemble a destroyed building and to feature a Menorah on its roof. The ramp leads downward to remind visitors of the extermination of European Jews. At the lowest point inside, light shines through an opening.
Dachau FINAL REFLECTION
Visiting the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site was a profoundly moving and sobering experience. Walking through the grounds, reading the stories of those imprisoned there, and standing in places where so much suffering occurred leaves a lasting impression. It is impossible not to reflect on the depths of human cruelty, but also on the resilience, dignity, and courage of those who endured unimaginable hardship. A visit to Dachau is both heartbreaking and essential, serving as a powerful reminder of the importance of remembrance, tolerance, and the responsibility to confront hatred wherever it appears.
KLOSTER ANDECHS
The Kloster Andechs is perched on Bavaria’s Holy Mountain, not because it’s high, but because of what it holds. In 955, several sacred relics associated with saints and Christ were brought from Rome and the Holy Land to the mountain. Soon, pilgrims began making their way to the Holy Mountain seeking spiritual comfort, healing, and maybe a miracle. The relics were lost for a period of time and rediscovered in 1388. Again, the Andechs flourished and later became a Benedictine monastery. It survived the Reformation, wars, and the temporary suspension of monastic life in the early 1800s. Today, the Andechs and the Holy Mountain remain places of history, faith, and hospitality.
According to Rick Steves, Andechs has the best beer in Bavaria. That’s saying a lot; there are between 600 and 700 breweries in Bavaria. I only tried a few, and they were all pretty darn good. The brewing of beer at Andechs began in medieval times, when water was unsafe to drink. Beer was cleaner and more reliable for monks and travelers. When the Benedictines took over Andechs in 1455, brewing became part of monastic life. The sale of beer helped the monks support the local community and the many pilgrims who came to the Holy Mountain. Over time, with refinement of the brewing process and the use of high-quality ingredients, Andechs earned a reputation as a brewer of exceptional beer. Beers are still brewed according to time-honored traditions. Andechs is the only monastery in Germany with a brewery run by monks.
MARIENPLATZ (MUNICH’S CENTRAL SQUARE)
After exiting the busy train station, we entered the Marienplatz, the center of the city. There were lots of people milling around, many of whom were in the city for Oktoberfest. The biggest crowd was gathered in front of the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall) to watch the famous 43-bell Glockenspiel perform. For over 100 years, this twice-daily show (three times daily from May to October) brings to life some of the city’s history dating back to the 1600s. 
HOFBRÄUHAUS
It was soon lunchtime, so we headed to the nearby Hofbräuhaus, one of Munich’s most famous gathering places. It was founded in the late 1500s as a royal brewery and has become one of the liveliest beer halls in a town known for its beer halls. We were not disappointed. The place was packed, and the noise level was high. I even got an alert on my Apple Watch about the noise. 
THE VIEW FROM CITY HALL
During our earlier stop at the tourist information center, I learned that for the modest price of €6 (about $7 USD), visitors could ride the elevator to the city hall tower. I quickly plunked down my money for a ticket. Wayne doesn’t care much for heights, so he opted to relax in the plaza.
They were right, the view was outstanding. In the top photo, the Cathedral with the onion domes stands out.
OKTOBERFEST
The Hofbräu-Festzelt
After a bit to eat, it was time to experience one of the beer tents. I chose Hofbräu for their beer and atmosphere. Sylvia took us on a walkthrough during the tour. The tent is lively and energetic, a favorite of visitors from around the world. Like the other tents, it seats thousands of guests and has a good-sized standing area near the middle of the tent. Since it was drizzling, a weekday, and early afternoon, it wasn’t crowded at all.
Shortly after getting settled on one of the standing tables for those of us without reservations, I ordered a beer. What arrived was a liter of full-bodied golden Marzen lager with a 6% alcohol content. The charge for this beer was €15.40 or about $18 USD. It was a good choice and very tasty. And the beer stayed cold until the last drop.
To soak up some of the liquid, I purchased a large pretzel for €8 or about $9.50. There were many different kinds of food on the menu, such as roast chicken, sausages and sauerkraut, pork knuckle, potato dumplings, and apple strudel. The beer and pretzel were enough for me!
That’s it for this week. Join me next week for the Best of Brazil. It’s been one year since we were there.
Until next week, happy travels!
Tom
PS: Click here for a link to the post about my book “Farm Boy.” Contact me if you are interested in purchasing a copy. Thanks to all have plunked down your hard earned dollars and read the book. TM