The Best of Brazil – Its been one year

Today’s post is 3100 words, 44 photos, 2 videos, and a 14-minute read. Enjoy!

Hi everyone,

Welcome back to Traveling With Tom. It has been a crazy few weeks after traveling to Sacramento, North Dakota, and Washington, DC. Stay tuned for upcoming posts from those locations in the coming weeks. This week, I’ll take you back exactly one year, when we were in Brazil. We’ll make quick visits to Rio de Janeiro, Iguazu Falls, Belo Horizonte, and Belém. I hope you’ll enjoy the trip.

If you missed my series of posts on Brazil, click here, here, here, and here for Rio; click here and here for Iguazu Falls; click here, here, and here for Belo Horizonte; and click here, here, here, and here for Belém.

Let’s get started!

The Best of Rio de Janeiro

It was a year ago when we arrived in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, to begin five days of touring, then onward to Belo Horizonte and Belem for Friendship Force homestays. It was a great time and memoriable experience for my very first time in South America.

While we were waiting to check in, the front desk clerk offered an upgrade to a seaside room. In an unusual move, I instantly took the offer and paid the extra $50 per night. It was so worth it. We were on the 17th floor, and this was the view from our room.

ON TOUR WITH LEYLA

After a good sleep (9 hours for me) and a light hotel breakfast, three of us met Neyla and her driver Mauricio for a 3-4 hour food tour at the Ipanema Farmers Market. Yes, it’s the same part of Rio from the song “The Girl from Ipanema,” which was popular in the early 1960s. First written in Portuguese, it was translated into English and made the charts in the US and UK at a time when the Beatles, Rolling Stones, Beach Boys, and other groups were very popular. In fact, the B-side of the single record was Bob Dylan’s “Blowin’ in the Wind.

BOTANICAL GARDEN OF RIO DE JANEIRO

This species of palm is commonly known as the Caribbean Royal Palm or Imperial Palm. There are two alleys or avenues in the gardens dedicated to these magnificent trees. These palms reach a height of between 135 and 165 feet (45 and 50 meters).  As I walked along one of the avenues, I stopped several times to admire its beauty. They are considered one of the garden’s iconic features

While I had a lot of favorites in this garden, the pond with the giant waterlilies, or Victoria lilies, named in honor of Queen Victoria of England, is my top favorite. These aquatic plants can grow to between 6 and 10 feet (2-3 meters) wide, with a raised rim 4-8 inches (4-8 centimeters) high. The flowers can grow to nearly 10 inches (25 centimeters) in diameter. This whole plant is not only huge, but it’s also beautiful to look at. I walked around this pond looking for good angles to photograph. I came across another photographer, and we chatted for a few minutes about photography and the giant waterlilies. This is a feature not to be missed

ON TOUR WITH MARCIA AND CELSO

Marcia (pronounced mar-see-ah), our English-speaking tour guide for the day, met our group at the hotel. After quick introductions, she led us out to the minibus that would be our transport for the day. The bus was ably driven by Celso.

Overlooking Rio at the summit of Mount Corcovado stands the statue of Cristo Redentor or Christ the Redeemer, another iconic site affiliated with the city and the country. It is a symbol of Christianity with Christ’s outstretched arms as a gesture of welcome and peace. Millions of people visit this site every year. The nearly 100 foot (30 meter) statue with a wingspan of 92 feet (28 meters) sits on a pedestal 26 feet tall (8 meters)

The next stop on our tour was at what is known locally as the “Lapa Steps” or formally as “Escaderia Selarón” or “Selaron Steps.” Chilean-born artist Jorge Selarón made art in many places in the world before settling in Rio. To beautify the neighborhood, he began decorating the 215 steps that went past his house with colorful tiles. Soon word was out, and people began to bring or send him tiles from around the world. Today, more than 2000 colorful tiles grace these steps. As a result, this has become a must-see tourist attraction

SUGARLOAF MOUNTAIN (PÃO DE AÇÚCAR)

Back on the bus, we made our way to Sugarloaf Mountain, a peak that overlooks Guanbara Bay. It’s not far from Copacabana. Sugarloaf got its name from the Portuguese when sugarcane was the prime crop in Brazil. They said it looked like a loaf of refined sugar. Ok, if one uses their imagination! Rising 1300 feet (400 meters) above the surrounding area, Sugarloaf is reached by taking two cable car rides. The first takes riders to the smaller nearby Morra de Urca. After a short walk and another wait, another cable car transports visitors over to Sugarloaf Mountain. It’s one of the most popular attractions in Rio with more than 1.5 million visitors a year

 

The Best of Iguazu Falls

We were met at the airport by our guide and driver, Eduardo. He was a friendly and engaging fellow, and I enjoyed our short time with him.

At 5:00 PM, Eduardo picked us up at the hotel, and we made the short drive to Marco das Tres Fronteiras, translated to English as “landmark of the three borders” or “triple frontier.” This attraction is located at the juncture of Brazil, Paraguay, and Argentina, where the Iguazu and Parana Rivers converge. The video shows all three countries, with Brazil in the foreground.

 

Our next stop was colorful and fascinating: Parque das Aves, or Bird Park in English, which is situated on 40 acres. This park is a sanctuary, shelter, and rehab facility for injured birds. This park receives over 900,000 visitors each year, the second most visited site in the Foz area, and one of the largest bird parks in Latin America.

Iguazu Falls

Well, folks, the time has finally come to take you to the Iguazu Falls, or Iguaçu Falls, one of the seven natural wonders of the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. These falls are located on the Iguazu River between Brazil and Argentina. Apparently, there is some back-and-forth about which country has the best views. It’s a fact that most of the falls are on the Argentine side, but maybe better viewed from the Brazilian side. If time weren’t a factor, I would have visited both sides.

In this photo, please note the viewing platform that extends out in front of the falls. The trail eventually took us to that platform.

 

The Best of Belo Horizonte

Meet Diana (pronounced De ana), our home host, and her dog Pretinha. Diana is a widow of about two years and lives in a lovely house with four bedrooms and four bathrooms.

After a lunch of fish and rice, we rested for a couple of hours and prepared for the welcome dinner. I took this photo from the front porch of Diana’s house as we were leaving.

Mariana and Ouro Preto

The next morning, we were up at 6 AM for coffee and breakfast before departing for the pick-up point at 7:30 AM. There, we meet the English-speaking guide Maria Paulina and the friendly bus driver Wenta.

Our destination today was the cities of Mariana and Ouro Preto, about 120 kilometers from Belo Horizonte. These cities are designated World Heritage Sites for their colonial Baroque architecture and historical value. Mariana was founded by the Portuguese in 1696, although indigenous peoples had long lived in the area before the colonizers arrived. After its founding, it served as the first capital of the State of Minas Gerais. Gold is what made Mariana and Ouro Preto famous. Gold was discovered around this time, setting off a gold rush that lasted for several decades. It’s estimated that over 1,200 tons of gold were extracted during this era, most of which was shipped to Portugal. What stayed in Brazil ended up decorating the many churches built by the Catholic missionaries.

Our first stop was at the Cathedral-Basilica of Our Lady of Assumption in the heart of Mariana. It was built in the 18th century when gold money was plentiful. The interior (no photos) is a work of art and features a pipe organ dating to the mid-1700s. It’s still in use.

In front of the St. Francis of Assisi Church in the city center stands the Pelourinho, the Pillory, a symbol of the colonizers’ power in the 18th century. This is where slaves and criminals faced their public punishment under the watch of the officers of the Portuguese military. It was where power and control over people and resources were exerted.

I snapped a few photos of some of the interesting and colorful buildings near the restaurant.

Ouro Preto is one of Brazil’s most beautiful and well-known colonial cities. Just 20 km from Mariana, Ouro Preto was the second capital of Minas Gerais until the late 1800s, when the capital moved to Belo Horizonte.

We walked to our next stop, the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi. Construction for this church began in 1766, incorporating the Baroque style with Rococo embellishments. While the exterior attracts some attention, the interior is stunning. I likened it to the Sistine Chapel at the Vatican. The ceiling was painted by Mestre Ataide, a highly respected painter and sculptor. Of note, he was married at age 46 to a woman 20 of mixed race. Legend has it that she was not allowed to enter the church because of her race. In his painting of the Virgin Mary in this church, Mestre Ataide used the physical characteristics and features of Brazil’s mixed-race population. He was known to use bright colors in his paintings, as seen in the photos below. Ataide was a member of a religious brotherhood that brought together different races, but also owned three black slaves.

Thanks to the gold barons, there is plenty of gold used throughout the church. It was quite beautiful and well-maintained.

Inhotim

First, a little about Inhotim, one of the largest outdoor art centers in Latin America. It was the brainchild of Bernardo Paz, a former mining executive. He lived on a small rural estate that was being threatened with development. He began purchasing surrounding tracts of land to protect them from being destroyed. Soon, he had acquired 5,000 acres of land and began developing the botanical garden on about 350 acres. Paz was also a connoisseur of modern art and commissioned pieces to fit into the natural landscape. He turned over Inhotim to a non-profit organization created to manage and financially support the art and botanical garden. Today, Inhotim contains 24 galleries filled with works of art, themed gardens, restaurants, gift shops, a theatre, and a library.

This permanent exhibit is called “Swap-Swap” by artist Jarbas Lopes. What he did was swap parts from these three VW Beetles to create a patchwork of color on each of the cars. I think it’s appropriate for an outdoor art gallery.

In one gallery, the room was totally furnished in red objects. To protect the carpet, we were asked to remove our shoes. After looking around, I notice a red stain on the floor that leads into complete darkness. I hear water running and see a dim light on the far wall, revealing a white sink with the tap open, red liquid running down the drain. The artist is telling the story of the political violence in Brazil’s recent history, from normality to bloodshed.

Inhotim was a wonderful place to visit. So much to see and experience. It was a good time.

The day became even better when we encountered a group of young people that attend a military academy. It started when one of the boys called out to my Traveling Partner and said: “Hey, I can speak English.” At first my Traveling Partner ignored it but the boy persisted. So she stopped and a group of 6-8 kids ran up to her and another person in our party and began chattering away. The kids asked where they were from, if they like Brazil, the food, and many other questions. They were so polite and respectful. Soon we were all involved talking with them. Someone asked how they learned English. All kids in Brazil study some English during their school years. These kids said they learned most of their English by watching movies and Youtube videos. A very common response during our time in Brazil.

After our conversation, we went on our way. We met up with them again at the entrance. This time the conversations involved more of the students. Here are a couple of photos of the kids. One with me and the other with another person from our group.

Around Belo Horizonte

Our first stop was at the Mirante Mangabeiras viewpoint. It’s one of the highest points in the city and a very popular place to view the sunset. I was amazed at the view on this beautiful day. As you view the photos and video below, note the many tall buildings. Also note that most of the buildings are white or light colored. The majority of people live in apartments. I asked Diana if we could see her house from here. She answered in Portuguese, “Out there somewhere!”

The next stop on our tour was the area of the city known as Pampulha. Several cultural landmarks are found on or near this lake. The Church of Saint Francis of Assisi was designed by architect Oscar Niemeyer in the early 1940s, who was influential in the design of the planned capital city of Brasilia and the UN headquarters in New York City. The church was built in the modernist style that became popular in the early 20th century. While small in size, the design is very interesting and unique. It was designed to resemble the mountains surrounding the city.

Apparently, the local clergy at the time were not happy with the modern design and didn’t consecrate the sanctuary until 1959, 14 years after it was completed. The Archbishop called it “the devil’s bomb shelter.” This church is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and very popular for weddings and baptisms.

The Best of Belém

We arrived in Belém at about 3 PM after a short stop in Carajas. Over land, it’s 1700 miles (2750 km) from Belo Horizonte to Belém.  Our hosts, Nazaré and Cornélio, met us and spirited us away to their 9th-floor apartment home in the city.

Combu Island

After a good night’s sleep, we had a very nice breakfast of sandwiches and fruit prepared by Otilia. The coffee was excellent and plentiful. Cornelio and Nazare took us to the pier on the waterfront to catch the 10-minute boat ride over to Combu Island. This island, about 3700 acres (1500 hectares) or 5.8 square miles (15 square kilometers), is an environmentally protected area. Combu Island is inhabited by about 200 families of traditional riverside dwellers. The economy is based on fishing and harvesting forest products such as Brazil nuts, açai berries, and cacao. Tourism is also important, with riverside restaurants and artisanal chocolate production.

After the delicious lunch and entertainment, we boarded the boat for a visit to Casa do Chocolate-Filha do Combu. This business harvests cocoa pods from the native trees on Combu Island and processes them into artisan chocolate. The goals are sustainability and income for the local community. The factory and business are only accessible by boat, but many locals and tourists come by each day to buy these chocolates

Mosqueiro Island

I looked out the window for most of the hour-long bus ride to the island. While we were still in the suburbs of Belem, I noticed what looked like the Statue of Liberty ahead. I thought I was seeing things. I had my camera ready as we drove by and snapped the photo below. I asked Marcus about the statute. He told me the Havan department stores have a replica of the Statue of Liberty that has become the symbol of the now 180 stores in Brazil. The stores often feature exterior designs resembling the U.S. White House. Both the statute and the store’s outer facade symbolize freedom of choice. It’s interesting to note that the founder and owner of these stores, Luciano Hang, was caught up in the investigation of the attempted coup of former President Jair Bolsonaro. Hang wasn’t directly involved but had his assets frozen for a period of time. Now he’s back to business as usual. I guess freedom of choice.

Across the street from the church was the Tapiocaria, where tapioca is the main dish. Tapioca is made from the root of the cassava plant, a staple food in the tropics. It’s high in carbs. We sampled what is known as tapioca pearls made with milk, sweetened, and served over a banana leaf. It tasted like sweet rice. I liked it. This version is unique to Mosqueiro Island.

Around Belém

This fella is grinding up fresh cassava leaves to make maniçoba, a traditional dish served with meat and rice. But first, the ground-up leaves must be boiled for 8 days to remove the poisons they contain, as shown in the second photo. I have to say it looked and smelled unappealing at this stage. I’m told it’s delicious if prepared correctly. I’ll take their word for it!

At this food stand, the proud owner shows us the prepared açaí made from açaí berries. The berries themselves don’t have much flavor, so the pureed mixture is blended with sweeter fruits like bananas, mangoes, and strawberries, along with honey or coconut milk, to add more flavor. This vendor served açaí with fried fish, much loved by the locals.

Mangal das Gracas Ecological Park

Soon, the bus and our guide, Marcus, arrived. Our first destination was the Mangal das Graças Ecological Park (also known as the Mangrove of the Heron) near the waterfront. This park was established in 2005 near the river and the historic center of Belém to represent the many ecosystems, flora, and fauna of the surrounding area. They also protect and rehabilitate animals that are captured or mistreated with the goal of releasing them back into the wild. The park provides educational programs to increase awareness of the importance of wild animals and their ecosystems. Since its development, it has become a major attraction in Belém.

Boat Cruise on the waterfront

We boarded the tour boat at about 5:15 PM. It took us along the waterfront in Guajará Bay. We passed the Ver-o-Peso market complex, the Forte do Presépio, the Cathedral, and Porto do Sal. Here’s a little of what we saw.

My 2025 trip to Brazil gave me the opportunity to explore Brazil’s remarkable diversity, the vibrant energy of Rio de Janeiro, and the thundering spectacle of Iguazu Falls. In Belo Horizonte, I experienced the culture and cuisine of Brazil’s interior, while Belém provided a fascinating gateway to the Amazon region, with its unique blend of Indigenous, Portuguese, and riverfront traditions. Together, these destinations revealed the beauty, history, and cultural richness that make Brazil one of the world’s most captivating countries.

Until next week, happy travels!

Tom

PS: Click here for a link to the post about my book “Farm Boy.” Contact me if you are interested in purchasing a copy. Thanks to all who have plunked down your hard-earned dollars and read the book. TM

2 thoughts on “The Best of Brazil – Its been one year

  1. Love read about your journeys, can’t wait to read about you and Wayne in D.C.

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