Today’s post is 1700 words, 35 photos, an 8 minute read. Enjoy!
Hi everyone,
This week I’ll take you on the train into the river city of Cologne. There, two old farm boys will do a walking tour of the city center with Sascha and a guided tour with Andre of the Kölner Dom (Cologne Cathedral).
If you missed the earlier posts in this series click here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, and here.
The Trail (and Train) to Cologne
Wayne and I were lodged at a horse farm near the town of Jülich about 50 miles west of Cologne. It was near where the German border meets the Netherlands and Belgium. When we planned this journey, the Cologne Cathedral or Kölner Dom was near the top of the list of our must dos. This was our destination today.
We drove for about 30 minutes to the train station at Horrem that takes riders to Cologne and Aachen. The parking lot near the station was huge with hundreds of parking spots. We found the one that was open. The ticket agent at the station was not very helpful, one of the few times this occurred while traveling in Germany. Nevertheless, we managed to buy tickets.
The 25-minute ride to Cologne was comfortable and pleasant. The Cologne Central Station (Köln Hauptbahnhof) was teeming with people coming and going from the 11 platforms. There were shops of all types, eateries, and pay-to-use restrooms. 
When we exited the station, the Cathedral was the first thing we saw. Wayne and I stood there raising our eyes to the tall spires. The place is massive and majestic. It is hard to find the right words to describe it. The Cologne Cathedral is the tallest twin spired church in the world and the third tallest in Europe. 
We found a place nearby for a coffee and a pastry. The day was mostly cloudy and overcast. The wind made it chilly, I wore four layers including a hoodie and light gloves. I wished I brought a stocking cap. To get out of the cold, we stepped inside the Cathedral for a quick look around. The place was crowded, some to escape the cold, others to take in the breathtaking artistry, and a few for spiritual reasons. The Cathedral receives about 20,000 visitors per day. We would be back for a tour later.
Cologne
The city of Cologne with a population of over 1 million (3.5 million in the region) is one of Germany’s oldest urban centers. It is the fourth most populous city after Berlin, Hamburg, and Munich. The city was founded as a Roman colony in 50 AD at a strategic location on the Rhine River. Over the centuries, Cologne grew into a major religious and commercial hub. The towering Cologne Cathedral, a masterpiece of Gothic architecture symbolized the city’s wealth and influence.
Cologne’s economy has been long tied to trade, manufacturing, chemicals, media, retail, and tourism. During World War II, Cologne suffered catastrophic damage from Allied bombing, particularly during the 1942 raids. By the end of the war in 1945, the city was in ruins except for the Cathedral that remained largely untouched. Following the end of the war, Cologne was rebuilt, blending reconstruction with modern development. Today it is the cultural and economic center of western Germany.
On Tour with Sascha
We met our English speaking tour guide, Sascha, at St. Peter’s fountain on the side of the Cathedral. Sascha was sent by Get Your Guide for a walking tour of Old Town Cologne. He told us he had worked in finance for years until he switched gears and became a tour guide, a job that he loves. There were seven in our tour including a young woman from Madison. It’s a small world!
Nearby was this couple asking people to connect with each other despite their differences. I noted that the colors of Palestine and Ukraine were next to the message.
Since the tour started right next to the Cathedral, Sascha described some of the exterior architecture. The west façade contains 47 sculptures of saints, apostles, and other biblical figures. 
Near the Cathedral is the Roman North Gate, a preserved archway that dates from the 1st century. It was once part of the city fortifications.
On our walk around Old Town, we passed the historic Excelsior Hotel Ernst that first opened in 1863. It quickly became the haunt of Cologne’s elite and served as British occupational headquarters after WWI ended. 
A piece of artwork on the plaza near the Cathedral. This and another artwork are built over the top of the Philharmonic Concert Hall. 
There are four monuments of German emperors near the Hohenzollern Bridge. The one below is of Emperor Wilhelm II, the last emperor of Germany when he abdicated at the end of World War I in 1918. He fled in exile to the Netherlands and died there in 1941 while under Nazi occupation.
The Hohenzollern Bridge crosses the Rhine and serves autos, trucks, and trains. During World War II, this bridge was one of the most important bridges in Germany. Even though it came under heavy bombing, it did not suffer much damage. However, German engineers blew up the bridge in early March 1945 when Allied forces began a ground assault on Cologne. Today the custom of love padlocks are placed on the bridge. The estimated number of locks on the bridge is over half million.
This fellow will happily sell you a padlock etched with names and sentiments. Neither Wayne nor I indulged.
The next two photos feature a bit of mocking vulgarity. The top photo is of a sculpture high up on a building a few minute walk from the Cathedral. It’s the Kallendresser, a boy or man defecating on those below, who exactly is left to speculation. Is it the person practicing their tuba at all hours of the day and night or the roofer too lazy to climb down to relieve himself, or the ordinary citizen who believes that figures of authority crap on them. You decide but also stop by and see it when in Cologne. 
Beneath the 600-year-old statue of Archbishop Konrad von Hochstaden at Cologne City Hall, a lewd figure exposes himself to the public. This provocative addition was likely crafted intentionally by the original artisans as a subtle challenge to both the elite and church authority. Meanwhile, the Archbishop is portrayed with saintly reverence at the Cathedral, fitting since he laid its cornerstone in 1248.
These sculptures are said to represent the local people of Cologne. On the left is Tünnes (Anton), known for his large nose and easy-going nature. He’s often portrayed as lovable but a little dimwitted. On the right is Schäl (Schädel) dressed in sporty frock, his eyes are crossed, representing the shrewd, sharp-witted side of the city. It’s a sort of yin and yang of the city with tongue in cheek references. Interesting stop and explanation by Sascha.
We passed by the fore mentioned city hall.
We stopped by a coffee and tea shop for a hot drink to warm up. I don’t think Sascha needed anymore coffee, he was hyped up enough.
It was an interesting tour with Sascha. We learned a lot of local history and folklore. It’s nice to have a guide to point out the unusual that guide books often skip over. We thanked him and immediately headed to the Dom Forum for a guided tour of the interior of the Cologne Cathedral.
Cologne Cathedral
Begun in 1248, the Cologne Cathedral is one of Europe’s greatest Gothic masterpieces. Completed 632 years later, the twin spires dominate and define the city skyline. Those spires rise 515 feet (157 m) above the surrounding area. Every generation of builders followed the original masterplan. They were said to be inspired by faith that their creation would give honor to God. Even today, the building is undergoing continuous restoration.
At the Dom Forum, we met our English speaking guide Andre Fischer. He did an excellent job telling us about the interior of the Cathedral.
The vast nave draws the eye upward to soaring ribbed vaults and slender columns, while light pours through intricate stained-glass windows.
The high altar is simple but contains the largest stone in the Cathedral. Behind the high altar are seven small chapels. The colorful stained-glass windows are above.
Below are a few examples of the stained glass windows around the Cathedral.
At the heart of the cathedral stands the gilded Shrine of the Three Kings, a richly decorated reliquary said to hold the remains of the Magi, making the cathedral a major pilgrimage site for centuries.
In the Lady Chapel is the “Altarpiece of the City’s Patron Saints.” Dating to 1445, the central panel portrays the adoration of the Magi. The two side panels honor patrons, St. Ursula and St. Gereon. It is a very revered and valuable piece of art.
Visitors also encounter finely carved choir stalls, medieval sculptures, and side chapels filled with devotional art, all combining to create an interior that feels both immense and intricately detailed.
These folks were setting up for a music concert that evening. It would have been fun to see and hear in such a large building.
In these parting photos, I tried to show the size and scale of the building. In the photo below, the man soliciting money is dwarfed by just a small part of the Cathedral.
This photo outlines the twin spires against the overcast sky. A wonderful sight to see.
After a stroll around the nearby shopping area and the purchase of some licorice, we headed back to the train station. We bought return tickets and almost missed our train because we couldn’t find where to validate the tickets. A nice fellow helped us get on the right train. It was packed. We had to stand all the way to Horrem. Within 30 minutes we were back at our lodging at the horse farm. We turned on the heat, it was still chilly outside.
Join me next week for more of Germany.
But before I go……
THE FIVE SENSES PLUS ONE
Saw – huge cathedral, stained glass windows, lots of people, the bridge with lots of locks, old houses and buildings on the market street
Heard – train rolling down the tracks, bells ringing, people talking in many languages
Touch – the wall of the cathedral, railings
Smell – dust, restroom smells
Taste – sandwich for lunch, coffee, pastry, wine, melon, grapes, licorice
Learned – a lot about the cathedral and some history of Cologne.
Until next week, happy travels!
Tom
PS: Click here for a link to the post about my book “Farm Boy.” Contact me if you are interested in purchasing a copy. Thanks to all have plunked down your hard earned dollars and read the book. TM