Today’s post is 955 words, 19 photos, a 5 minute read. Enjoy!
Hi everyone,
This week I’ll take you to two churches in Rome. I know, there are over 900 churches in the city but some are must see while others are stumbled on accidentally. This is the sixth in my series about our visit to Rome in late February and early March. If you missed those articles, click here, here, here, here, and here.
After two days of hard core touristing (is that even a word?), we got up late and were finally ready to get out and look around some more when it started raining. We final left our apartment at 1 PM thus a shortened day of “touristing.” We reviewed our list of places that we wanted to see and realized there were a few that were close by. After stopping for lunch and another coffee we headed for our first stop, Basilica of San Pietro in Vincoli (St. Peter in Chains). This church was built to house the chains that St. Peter was bound with and Michelangelo’s statue of Moses. We climbed the many very steep steps from Via Cavour and were out of breath when we reached the top just to find out the church was closed until 3 PM. Disgusted with ourselves that we didn’t check the hours before leaving, we descended the stairs and headed for the next church on our list.
Oh wait, we lost our way but found another church to visit before getting back on track.
Basilica dei Santi Silvestro e Martino ai Monti
This church also goes by the name of Saints Sylvester and Martin on the Mountains. This parish was founded in the 4th century AD by Pope Sylvester 1. 
The current church building was completed in 1780. Although the exterior is unassuming, the interior is quite beautiful with several frescos and paintings by accomplished artists. Many date to the 17th century. Upon entry, we noted a fellow having a snooze in one of the pews. It was a quiet place to rest!
Under the alter, I noted a stairway and went for a bit of exploration deep into the crypt leaving my Traveling Partner in the sanctuary. She recalls reading about the relics of St. Rita, the Patron Saint of the Impossible. Maybe in reference to my curiosity and wandering around for photos!
After dropping a few euros in the collection box, I descended into the crypt. The route was well lit. Apparently, this catacombs are the burial place of some of the early martyred Christians and even a Pope. I found this little detour fascinating, an unexpected bright spot on a dreary day.
When I emerged from the crypt, my Traveling Partner was waiting for me. She was ready to move on to the next church, the one we were looking for when we came across this one.
Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
The Basilica of St. Maria Major is one of the seven pilgrim churches in Rome. Visiting these churches while in Rome began in the 1500s as a way to boost knowledge of the saints and strengthen the religious experience. In modern times, a seven church walk (12 miles) is usually done during Holy Week.
The Basilica of St. Maria Major is on land owned by Italian government but the buildings belong to the Vatican under a long term agreement. It operates somewhat like a foreign embassy. Popes often celebrate rites at this Basilica especially on Feast of the Assumption of Mary. Pope Francis has constructed a tomb at this church where he will be buried when the time comes, the first Pope buried outside the Vatican since the early 1900s.
This church is said to have been built as a place of honor by the divine intervention of the Virgin Mary. And it’s the largest of the 80 “Mary” churches in Rome. The church is dedicated to protection of the Roman people. Construction began in 432 and was completed in 1743. That’s a long time but the place is huge.
We arrived later in the day. It was difficult to determine if there was an admission. Apparently not, but we paid 6 Euros each for a tour of the bell tower. But due to our misunderstanding, we missed the tour.
The interior is quite stunning. It’s filled with frescoes, paints, alter pieces, statues, the tombs of Popes and cardinals, and the burial place of well known Italians such as members of the Borghese and Bernini families, patrons of the church. The marble floor and the decorated ceiling were beautiful and added to the richness of the church. Here are some photos from our brief visit.
If you have the time, a visit to this church is recommended. I’d get there earlier and join a guided tour to get a better appreciation of all there is to see.
The Basilica is located about 4 blocks from Rome Termini, the cities main transportation hub. We walked over there to inquire about tickets to the airport. I stood in a long line to talk to one of the attendants. After a bit, a supervisor walked through the line asking what help people needed. When she approached me, I her told I wanted to purchase advanced tickets to the airport. She pulled me out of line, we walked over to an unused terminal and within a few minutes I had my tickets in hand. Then she went back to help others. An example of good customer service where at times in this country it’s lacking.
The rain was back so we took the Metro back to Cavour station. We knew the next day would be long so called it a day. Join me next week for a look underneath St. Peter’s Basilica and then a look from the highest point the public is allowed.
Until then, happy travels!
Tom