Today’s post is 1600 words, 36 photos, an 8 minute read. Enjoy!
Hi everyone,
This week I’ll take you on the Civil Rights Trail that travels through Birmingham to Selma and on to Montgomery Alabama. In today’s journey, we’ll see the historical Edmund Pettus bridge, meet the Selma Police Chief, eat some wonderful barbecue, and meet a man who once was a body guard for Martin Luther King, Jr.
If you missed my posts on our time in Birmingham, click here, here, and here.
The Trail to Selma
After a good nights sleep, coffee, and breakfast, our Friendship Force host Arlene took us to the assembly point to meet our guide and transportation from Birmingham through Selma to Montgomery. We had a great time in Birmingham learning about the history and culture of this Southern city. Our Friendship Force hosts provided a warm welcome and a fond farewell with an invitation to return in the future.
Meet Terry Chestnut, our tour guide and driver from Footsteps Through Selma. This friendly and engaging fellow took us on his bus to Selma and showed us some of the historical sites in the city.
During our tour, Terry told us about his father, J. L. Chestnut, Jr., the first black lawyer in Selma. His father wrote a book, Black in Selma, to share his story about the struggle for civil rights. It’s an interesting read that begins with a history of Selma and the surrounding area. Check to see if your local library has access to a copy through interlibrary loan. The book is also available through that company with the same name as a major river in South America who I shall not name.
As Terry drove through the 90 miles of countryside from Birmingham to Selma, he shared stories about Selma and its place in the Civil Rights Movement. Selma was founded in 1820 along the Alabama River by William Rufus King, a future U. S. Senator and Vice President of the United States. He and other investors purchase the land on the north side of the Alabama River and began selling lots.
During the Civil War, Selma was one of the crucial Confederate manufacturing and supply hubs making it a prime target for the Union. Its capture in early 1865 crippled the South’s war effort and nearly destroyed the city. After the Civil War ended, Selma struggled for years as area planters dealt with freed slaves who were given freedom and the right to vote. This brought on the Jim Crow era that limited the voting rights of poor blacks and whites.
After World War II, local and national leaders of the Voting and Civil Rights Movements began pushing back against the discriminatory laws and norms. At the time, about half of the population of Selma of 28,000 was black. Today it’s about 80% Black with a population of about 16,000 people.
Edmund Pettus Bridge
Upon our arrival in Selma, Terry took us first to the Edmund Pettus Bridge. Now a National Historic Landmark, this bridge was named after a Confederate General and Grand Dragon of the Alabama Ku Klux Klan (KKK). It was the site of what has become known “Bloody Sunday” March 7, 1965. On this day, an estimated 300-600 people led by future Congressman John Lewis and other leaders of the Civil Rights Movement began their march from Selma to Montgomery. As they crossed the bridge, they were met by a wall of state troopers and a posse of local white men. The marchers were told to disband and return home. When they refused, the police began pushing them back and beating them with clubs. According to the accounts of the incident, 17 marchers were hospitalized and another 50 treated for injuries.
The second march began two days later led by Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. but was called off due to an injunction against further marches. The third and successful march led by Dr. King began on March 21 and arrived in Montgomery, the capital of Alabama, on March 24. Over 25,000 people participated in the march.
The response to “Bloody Sunday” was national outrage at the brutality towards peaceful marchers. Massive public support for voting rights resulted in swift legislative action. President Johnson signed into law the Voting Rights Act of 1965on August 6, 1965 and acknowledged that it drew inspiration from Selma.
Before our small group walked across the bridge. We met Columbus, an Army veteran, who was selling t-shirts to raise money to send school kids from Selma to Washington, D.C. for a civics lesson in democracy. His passionate support for keeping the struggle for civil rights was very apparent.
Note that the historic bridge is behind the letters spelling out Selma.
Before I walked across the bridge, I snapped a photo of Selma’s downtown. There were a lot of vacant buildings along with some open businesses. We were told there are attempts to revitalize the downtown but it’s a hard with major highways nearby.
It was an eerie, unexplained feeling, a chill went up my spine, as I walked up to the crest of the bridge. I was walking in the footsteps where others had trod to fight for their rights. When I think about it, they were fighting for the rights of all of us. At the crest, I imagined what the marchers saw that day in 1965, a force of angry men with clubs, guns, dogs, and horses. Yet they marched on and without knowing it, they created a seminal moment that galvanized a nation into rightful action. There is much progress to be made in civil and voting rights but if it weren’t for those brave souls, we might still be back in the 1950s and ’60s.
Terry met our group (there were 12 of us) on the other side of the bridge. There is a small park with several monuments honoring those who contributed so much to the civil and voting rights movement. 
Another informational sign described the lynchings that occurred in Selma. The sign was erected by the Equal Justice Initiative that we would learn more about during our time in Montgomery.
The twelve rocks in this display commemorates the 1965 crossing of the bridge during the Selma to Montgomery marches. The stones are symbols of the human role in achieving liberation and a reminder of the sacrifices made during the Civil Rights Movement. The inscription is from the Book of Joshua 4:21-22: “When your children shall ask you in time to come saying, “What mean these 12 stones?” Then you shall tell them how you made it over.” 
On the wall behind the park were murals of others involved in the civil rights movement.
Across the street is the National Voting Rights Museum. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to stop.
Brown Chapel of A.M.E. Church
The Brown Chapel of the A.M.E. Church in Selma played a pivotal role in the marches from Selma to Montgomery. Terry took us by the church that is undergoing renovations after the 2023 tornado that ripped through the community. The Brown Chapel is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and designated a National Historic Landmark.
Chief of Police Kenta Fulford
During our drive around Selma, Terry contacted the Selma Police Chief. He met us near the Brown Chapel and graciously answered our questions about the community. He told us that he’s in the Army Reserve and has been deployed. He told us that some of problems in the city are poverty leading to property crimes, gangs, drugs, and guns. I found him to be committed to the communities safety and well-being.
Nearby by was a historic marker detailing the life of Terry’s father.
Lannie’s Bar-b-que Spot
It was well past lunch time when we pulled into the full parking lot of Lannie’s Bar-b-que. According to reports, it’s considered one of the best barbecue joints in the U.S. I agree! It’s won some awards and has been in business for over 80 years. Currently owned by Floyd and Al Hatcher, they have great food and quick, friendly service. The place was busy but our orders were delivered in short order. I had the regular BBQ sandwich on white bread and potato salad. On top were a couple of pieces of cracklins (pork skins). Delicious!
Reverend B. L. Tucker
After lunch, we stopped by the modest house of Reverend B. L. Tucker. He was one of Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. bodyguards when he came to Selma. A quiet, soft-spoken man, he took on a tour of his house that was damaged in the 2023 tornado. That day he was at his church, Trinity Baptist, when the tornado struck. His home was repaired by Samaritan’s Purse at no cost to him. He’s 85, his kids look after him after his wife passed away. An interesting fellow.
Around Selma
Terry took on a drive through the main part of the city and shared interesting stories of people and places. We did see a number of houses in disrepair and some quite nicely fixed up. It’s a mixed bag in a city that is coping with poverty and a declining population. Hope is in the affordable housing market, increases in infrastructure spending, and economic planning. 
Our last stop was at the local fruit stand, Ford Farms Produce. We purchased a couple of slices of yellow watermelon and some plums. They were awesome! My Traveling Partner also tried the fruit lemonade made with real fruit, sugar, fresh squeezed lemons, and water. Very tasty. A nice stop before heading the 50miles to Montgomery.
As we were leaving town, Terry pointed out the county judicial building that was named after his father J. L. Chestnut, Jr. and Bruce C. Boynton, a civil rights leader in Selma.
It was a fun day with Terry. I think we learned a lot and had interesting experiences. Next week join me in Montgomery where I’ll take to more civil rights sites.
THE FIVE SENSES PLUS ONE
Saw – the famous bridge, one man’s house, the city of Selma
Heard – road noises in the bus, cars on street, the Police Chief talk about the city
Touch – the famous bridge and railing
Smell – tar, cat fish frying, food cooking
Taste – pork barbecue, crackling, potato salad, circus peanuts from Dave’s Foods, moon pies
Learned – more about the civil rights movement and about the march from Selma to Montgomery
Until next week, happy travels!
Tom
PS: Click here for a link to the post about my book “Farm Boy.” Contact me if you are interested in purchasing a copy. Thanks to all have plunked down your hard earned dollars and read the book. TM