Today’s post is 1300 words, 28 photos, an 6 minute read. Enjoy!

Hi everyone,

This week I continue our travels through the lowlands of southwestern Scotland. We’ll make a refreshing stop at a country ice cream shop and walk the seaside village of Kirkcudbright. If you missed the first four posts in this series, click here, here, here, and here.

But first…. On November 13, 2015, I posted my very first blog post with a short narrative and a half dozen photos of Madeline Island, Wisconsin. The next day November 14, I posted my second blog in reaction to the horrible events in Paris, France where terroists killed 130 people and wounded over 400. Since then, I’ve continued writing weekly blogs that come out on Sunday afternoons at 4:00 PM Central Time here in the US. That is unless I make a mistake and post it early by mistake!

So today is the 9th anniversary of writing this blog. I plan on continuing until I run out of material, quit traveling, stop photographing, or get too old, whichever comes first. Thanks to the readers here on WordPress, Facebook, LinkedIn, and Next Door. Your comments, fact checks, criticism, and compliments are always welcome. Let’s get started on blog post number 469.

Cream o’ Galloway

We left the village of Newton Stewart headed for Dumfries where we’d spend a couple of nights in Robert Burns country. On the route, we saw a sign for the Cream o’ Galloway, with their on-the-farm ice cream parlor and nature trails. It didn’t take much convincing for us to turn off the A75 onto the single-lane road with rock walls on each side. Fortunately, we were the only car on the road so no squeezing by on the narrow track.

Instead of heading directly to the parlor to sample the fresh ice cream, we took to the nature trails that wound through the property. The day was sunny and bright after a couple of days of cool, rainy, windy weather. There were a couple of small ponds created by dams with an abundance of turtles lounging in the sun and song birds buzzing around. At the bird hide, we watch geese and swans swimming by. It was an enjoyable walk.

There was an interesting display along the trail on the construction of dry stone walls. The process of building a stone wall takes knowledge and skills for the wall to last, often for hundreds of years. In the old days, nearly every locale had someone who hired out to build stone walls. There are still a few craftsmen around who make repairs, reset stones, or build new walls.

Our walk created an appetite for some ice cream so we headed to the parlor (parlour in the old English) where we first examined the many flavors available for consumption. We were offered a taste test of a few while contemplating our choice.

I quickly selected the Whisky Honey Oatmeal and went to the counter to place my order while my Traveling Partner and The Youngest mulled over their selection. Liz (in the photo below) scooped it into a dish. When she was done, she told me I was her very first customer, it was her first day on the job. She was so excited to be working at the parlor. My selection was delicious and made right there on the farm. A very fun stop.

Kirkcudbright

We took the back roads to Kirkcudbright, an artist town on the River Dee that flows into the sea. We parked in a public lot near the harbor and the visitor center staffed by two very helpful ladies. They gave us a couple of maps and made suggestions on things to see, do, and where to have lunch.

The ladies pointed us to the nearby Broughton House and Gardens. The house was closed, we were more interested in the gardens. They were quite nice with lots of curated plantings, it was early spring so there were only a few flowers in bloom.

On the way to the town center, we stopped at MacLellan’s Castle built in the late 16th century. The Castle was closed to make safety improvements. We chatted with the fellow in charge of the Castle. He gave us a brief overview and we continued on our way.

Nearby was the Kirkcudbright Memorial to those who perished in World Wars I and II. Note the long list of those killed in WWI. This town of 3000 people lost a significant number of men during that conflict. There were far fewer in WWII, still plenty.

We had worn off our dish of ice cream so headed to the recommended lunch place. We were told to find St.Cuthbert’s church near the town square. Across the street is the Kirkcudbright Galleries. The bright, airy gallery was opened in 2018 in an historic building, the former town hall. The cafe was filled with local people, we were able to snag a small table overlooking St. Cuthbert’s and the street below. The lunch was delicious and reasonable. After lunch, we quickly cruised through the gallery and the gift shop.

I was curious about the monument in the town square. I don’t pretend to understand the ranks of nobility in the British system but an Earl is up there, the third highest rank. Anyway, Dunbar James Douglas, the 6th Earl of Selkirk was seemingly a pretty decent fellow. He was twice the First Minister of Scotland and thus the Keeper of the Great Seal of Scotland who stamped the letters written by the monarch. He married late in life to a younger woman, Cecilia who then became the Countess of Selkirk. She erected this monument in his honor.

Our walkabout town took us to several art galleries that lined St. Mary Street. There other tourists around, I expect the town is quite busy during the summer months.

We popped into a bookstore, Gallovidia Books. After a chat with the proprietor, I couldn’t resist this book written by a Scottish couple who run a dairy farm and eventually went from conventional farming to organic and leaving the calf with the cow instead of separating a day or two after birth. It’s an interesting and fun read. Click here for more information.

As we headed back to the car, we had a look at the harbor. The tide was out so most of the vessels were sitting in shallow water.

In closing, I have to share one interesting factoid about Kirkcudbright. I’ll give you a much shortened version, click here for more. Born in this town in 1747, John Paul Jones entered the British Navy at age 12 or 13. He served on several slave ships and after killing a subordinate in the West Indies, Jones made his way to Virginia where he joined the newly formed Continental Navy. Because of his broad experience sailing the seas, he was put in command of a naval ship. During his participation in many battles, he won some and lost some.

His claim to fame as the “Father of the American Navy” came when he fought a bloody battle with the 44-gun Royal Navy ship, the Serapis. Even though his vessel was burning and sinking, Jones muttered the words, “I have not yet begun to fight,” when the British asked him to surrender. A few hours later the captain of the British ship surrendered. He died and was buried in Paris in 1792. In the early 1900s, President Theodore Roosevelt had his remains repatriated to the United States and Jones was reinterred at the Naval Academy in Annapolis.

To me this is an interesting intersection between history and travel. The things one can learn from both is amazing and enlightening.

Next week, we’ll be in Dumfries and learn more about Robert (Rabbie) Burns, the famous poet and lyricist. Yes, he of Auld Lang Syne fame.

Until then, happy travels!

Tom

PS: Click here for a link to the post about my book “Farm Boy.” Contact me if you are interested in purchasing a copy. Thanks to all have plunked down your hard earned dollars and read the book. TM