Today’s post is 1350 words, 35 photos, 1 video, a 6 minute read. Enjoy!

Hi everyone,

Welcome back to Traveling with Tom. This week I continue with Part 2 of a couple of days of mind-blowing cultural experiences. Those are things that leave a deep imprint on one’s mind and soul. And maybe changes (and/or improves) the way the world is viewed. In today’s post, I’ll take you to a surprise stop to see a traditional dance troupe in action, visit a village health clinic, and stop by Papa’s family compound before heading to Accra.

If you missed my five posts (so far!) on Ghana, click here, here, here, here, and here.

The Traditional Dance Troupe

After breakfast and loading our luggage on the bus, we thought we were going to visit a health clinic. We were, but our bus was diverted to a large area across from the Royal House (featured last week) where a traditional dance troupe from Papa’s village was giving their very first performance. It was underway when we debarked from the bus. We heard the drum beats and saw the sweaty dancers form a circle around the caller and drummers. There were a few spectators including the Chief and some of the elders from the community.

The dancers were energetic, moving their feet in the red dirt to the beat of the drum and the rattle-like instrument made from a gourd. The dancers moved their bodies at times shaking all over, bending low, and making hand gestures. I assume all movements and words have meaning that totally escape this outsider. I should mention, about two-thirds of the people living the Volta Region of Ghana are of Ewe (pronounced eh-weh) ethnicity. Click on this link to learn a bit more about this ethnic group.

First some photos with brief commentary then a short video to offer you an idea what the dance looked like.

The dance troupe formed a couple of circles around the drums and the caller. As the dancers moved around the circle, there were a couple of people who kept the circle from getting larger, apparently the goal is for tight circles. You’ll note that almost all the dancers wore dresses and dashiki suits made from the same cloth. A few wore dresses and suits with the same pattern but had a purple accent. Apparently, those were leaders or participants from a previous dance group. There were a few dressed in civilian clothes that joined the dancing. We were welcomed to join in too. Some of our group did join, I declined and chose to take photos instead.

The fellow in the dashiki suit in the photo below was one of the people who kept the dancers in the tight circle. He’d use the “tools” in his hands to guide the dance back to the proper position.

Here’s the caller making a call and then waiting for a response.

It was another hot day in Ghana. The performance was held under a couple of large trees but the body heat was palpable whenever the music stopped and the dancers had a chance to drink some water and wipe their brow.

One of the dances featured a white towel or cloth. I’m not sure of the meaning of the towel but it did double duty wiping the sweat from the dancers’ faces.

 

 

As I was taking photos, I asked this woman if I could take a photo of her and the baby. She consented. I was intrigued by how the women carried their babies even as toddlers age two and older. She later handed off the child to someone so she could join the dancing.

And I liked the choices of sunglasses made by these fellas.

After the dance group ended their performance, most of them were heading in the same direction as we were. Papa and the two Martins filled all the extra seats on the bus with some of the women from his village. The heat index inside the quickly rose from the sweaty bodies that joined us. No only did they enjoy the AC in the bus, it was fun chatting with some of the dancers.

I’m not sure if this cultural experience was just plain luck or planned. Either way it was my favorite activity during our trip to Ghana. In hindsight, it reminded me a lot of an American Indian powwow with the drummer providing the beat and singing the song while the dancers moved with practiced steps. It was beautiful to watch, the colors, the beat, the chant, the energy, the sweat, and the pride.

The Health Clinic

After about a fifteen minute bus ride, we arrived at the compound where the Lente Wute health clinic was located. The courtyard was filled with people, mostly the dancers who were waiting for their participation polo shirts that were being distributed by the leaders.

The car toting the drums parked in the shade under a large tree. Most of the other dance participants arrived by bus, taxi, or motorcycle. 

As people were waiting, a woman selling vegetables did a good business.

I struck up a conversation with this fellow, I realized he’s one 0f the featured dancers in one of the photos above. I was first attracted to the back of this his polo shirt, I believe it was the same as what was being handed out in the courtyard. He wife soon joined him and wanted a photo with her. They were a darling couple.

The health clinic staff were quite busy that day. A lady had arrived with what looked like a broken foot. The clinic didn’t have the resources to x-ray her foot so she was sent to the hospital on a motorcycle taxi. She had to be in excruciating pain.

This clinic does a lot with few resources. There is no doctor at this clinic, it’s run by nurses and a mid-wife. They do immunizations, blood pressure monitoring, diabetes care, treat infections and tropical diseases common to the area, advise on contraception, provide pre- and post-natal care, deliver babies, and lots of primary care required of the local population. The Ghana Health Service pays the salaries of the clinic staff and some of the costs of the infrastructure. Recently, a philanthropist with ties to the area provided the funds to build a 4-unit reproductive/child health facility. The local health committee also helps where they can. Ghana does have a national health insurance system as well as access to private insurance. It’s amazing what they do with few resources. I should mention, Ghana has a surplus of nurses, some are being recruited to the United Kingdom where there is a shortage.

One of the nurse gave a brief presentation on the some work they did to improve vaccination rates of children. In additional to all the services, they provide patient education on disease prevention to the people in the surrounding communities.

Papa’s Compound

Before heading to Accra for our next Ghana adventure, we stopped by Papa’s compound. He’s quite proud of his kids, the youngest being 2 years-old. Papa’s house is spacious with a large kitchen for cooking.

When he and his wife Agnes are working (she’s a seamstress), some of his nieces and nephews plus a couple of aunts, an uncle, siblings look after the kids. They live in some of the other houses on the compound.

Papa with his uncle.

One of his relatives was husking a crop of coconuts that would serve as food for the families or sold to purchase staples.

This is one of his aunts who was washing clothes and hanging them to dry. She cooked meals in the small structure in the second photo below.

As we’re walking back to the bus, we came across this fellow, I believe making thin strips of reeds for weaving baskets. It looks like a skill honed by years of experience.

With that we were back on the bus to Accra where we would spend the night before flying north for another adventure. Stay tuned.

Until next week, happy travels!

Tom

PS: Click here for a link to the post about my book “Farm Boy.” Contact me if you are interested in purchasing a copy. Thanks to all have plunked down your hard earned dollars and read the book. TM