Today’s post is 1500 words, 42 photos, 1 video, a 7.5 minute read. Enjoy!
Hi everyone,
Welcome back to another episode of Traveling With Tom. This week, I’ll take you to the workshop of an alebrijes artisan where we’ll see some unique Mexican artwork and make some of our own. We’ll also do a walkabout in Oaxaca. If you missed the earlier articles in this series, click here, here, here, here, here, and here.
Alebrijes Artisan Community
It was mid-afternoon when our G Adventures tour bus dropped us off at a family compound where alebrijes artisans were hard at work. Alebrijes are vibrant, mythical Mexican folk art sculptures that symbolize rebirth, creativity, and the connection between the earthly and spiritual worlds. They are seen as guardians and protectors, warding off evil spirits and guiding souls in the afterlife.
Alebrijes were created in the 1930s by Pedro Linares, a paper mâché artist from Mexico City. Linares fell ill and during his serious illness, he dreamt he was in a forest and saw strange and unknown animals. When he recovered, he began making these creatures that came to him, first out of paper then out of wood. Within a few years, artisans from Oaxaca adopted this art type and began carving them out of copal, a soft wood found in the area. There are about 150 families involved in carving and selling these creatures. Many of these workshops are located in or near San Martin Tilcajete, about one hour south of Oaxaca.
Meet Rosie, the proprietor and lead artisan at her families workshop. She learned the trade from her father after expressing an interest in making alebrije. Rosie told us that at the time it was unusual for women to become alebrijie artisan, it has been generally a male dominated profession. In her workshop there were several young people working on various stages of the process of completing a finish product.
After the creature is carved, it’s sanded and painted in painstakingly minute detail. As you scan through the photos, note the interesting creatures waiting to be painted or in the process of being painted.
This is Rosie’s brother who was carving a bird resembling an eagle. 
This table is where the carved creatures are painted. Note the dog being painted by the fellow on the left. They fulfill custom orders to the specifications of the customer. In this case the replica of a dog.
Another carver at work.
Rosie has a room near the workshop where she sells her products. There is a wide variety of creatures, I found the display of the band in the second photo to be quite unique and joyful.
Part of the activity was to try out painting our own creature. I painted this dog, my Traveling Partner had an armadillo. It’s harder than it looks. It helps to have a steady hand which I lack! Some of the others in our tour group did quite a nice job painting their creature.
While we were painting our creatures, Rosie came around with a chart that determines your spiritual and protector animals based on your birthday day and birth year. According to her charts, my spiritual animal is the hummingbird and protector animal is the owl. Both birds, one swift, one steady and wise. Ok, I’ll take it!
After my pitiful attempt at painting, I took a look around the store. There I purchased a beautiful hummingbird for $800 pesos or $40 USD. It is beautiful and well worth the cost for the spiritual help, I need it. I hope that hummingbird swiftly carries me to the afterlife when the time comes.
In the yard next to the artisan compound, I noticed this VW Bug painted much like the mystical creatures we just saw in the workshop. Looks like it needs a little work!
Our visit to this artisan workshop was one of the highlights of the tour. It was fun to meet Rosie and see her work up close and personal.
A Walkabout Oaxaca
We had most of our last full day in Oaxaca free. Since I wasn’t feeling well, we took it easy. After a leisurely breakfast at the hotel, we walked to the Zócalo (city center). Along the way, we saw these larger than life paper mâché figures outside one of the shops. While we were admiring the woman and man figures, a family came along and took photos of their kids. So did I. It was a Saturday so the streets were busy. It looked like there were people dressed for special events such as weddings, birthday parties, or even funerals.
The brightly colored buildings and decorations stood out in the morning light.
The tourist market was open for business and the crowds were pouring in.
Several of the buildings have murals painted on them. In this mural, the skull is surrounded by beautiful flowers likely with a spiritual meaning. The statement at the bottom of the mural translated from Spanish to English says: “I know God never dies.” As I mentioned in an earlier post, Oaxaca has one of the largest and well known Day of Dead festivals in the world. Apparently, the city is filled with visitors around the end of October and first part of November.
This fella was fast asleep on a busy sidewalk near the Zócalo. This sight was rare during our time in Mexico. Income inequality is an issue in Mexico as it is in many countries. About 36% of the population of Mexico live in poverty, about 7% in extreme poverty. Both are higher in rural areas of the country. Very few people in Mexico are considered homeless.
We came across what looked like the finish line of bicycle race or a ride to raise funds for a cause. Everyone was quite happy and excited to line up for photos with the figures.
Near one of the shops, this man was creating art work to sells. Never once did he look up while I was making photos, his concentration was impeccable.
Further down the street, we met this parade. We think it was a wedding celebration. People were dressed up and what looked to be newly weds, a couple in the 50s. They were certainly having fun and attracting a crowd.
Upon arrival at the Zócalo, we stopped for a coffee and water on this warm day. As we were enjoying the people watching on the busy central square, several street vendors came by trying to sell us some the typical tourist goods. We politely turned them down, creating a sad look from the vendor. We were also approached by others looking for a handout. The waiter shooed them away but it didn’t stop the more aggressive panhandlers.
As we walked around the square, we were approached by vendors selling tours, politely declining, we kept moving. The city square was busy especially the many men and women shining shoes. From one point I could see 5-6 vendors, they were all busy. Saturday must be the day to get your shoes shined. I looked down at my Keen hiking shoes, nothing to shine.
Even the central fountain served as a seating area for the many visitors. It was great people watching.
Mercado Benito Juárez
We walked over to the large market near the city center. It was loaded with people, it was a Saturday, locals and tourist mingled together. We bought some Mexican chocolate and a few other gifts for the folks back home. Here are a few photos from the market scene.
Chicken feet anyone?
These bunnies were quite cute. After taking the photo, I noticed a sign that said no photos.
With the crowds, we escaped to a side street, it was much quieter. There were still vendors, the mother and daughter gently gestured to us to look at their wares. We did and bought a few things. After taking the photo, I noticed an older person in the back of this cove, I think the grandmother, making it three generations at the market.
It was close to lunch time so I snapped this photo of the sign for food. We passed, always a little careful eating street food and avoiding the chance of a case of the trots.
There’s a story behind the Elektra store. Inside are ATMs but that’s not all. You can purchase motorcycles, televisions, appliances, and many other products. They finance. I’m told many young fellas go in to Elektra and come out with a new motorcycle with a long repayment plan. It’s quite the scheme. And it makes its owner incredibly wealthy.
I shot this photo from across the street of this open air barbershop.
It was lunch time. We selected a place that looked quiet. It was and for the first time in a couple of weeks there were Americanized dishes on the menu. I chose a ham sandwich with fries. I enjoyed it a lot!
That’s enough for this week. Join me next week were I’ll take you to a textile museum and a photo gallery. And then to our final dinner in Mexico.
Until then, happy travels!
Tom
PS: Click here for a link to the post about my book “Farm Boy.” Contact me if you are interested in purchasing a copy. Thanks to all have plunked down your hard earned dollars and read the book. TM