Belem – City of Mango Trees

Today’s post is 1875 words, 56 photos, a 9 minute read. Enjoy!

Hi everyone,

This post is the last one from our time in Brazil in late May and early June 2025. If you missed the previous articles click here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, and here.

This week we’ll continue to explore Belém, the City of Mango Trees. Find out why it’s called that name plus a visit to an ecological park, a gem museum, and a tour of the basilica before we say our farewells.

This was the day my Traveling Partner missed due to illness. She was up most of the night.. Not wanting to spread whatever she had to others, she stayed in bed all day. Our hosts checked on her periodically to make sure she had plenty of fluids.

I, on the other hand, was not afflicted until later in the day. My ears were plugged and I had cold symptoms. This didn’t keep me from seeing more of Belém.

City of Mango Trees

One of the most interesting things I learned about Belém is that the streets are lined with mango trees. You might wonder why this happened.

The story begins in the 15th century when Portugal colonized the present State of Goa in India. The Portuguese missionaries introduced the art of grafting to India thereby improving the quality of the mango fruit. From this beginning, Portuguese explorers carried seeds and grafts to West Africa and Brazil in the 16th century.

In Brazil, the mango trees flourished with ideal soil and climate. The city of Belém planted mango trees for shade along its streets and boulevards in the 1800s during the height of the rubber trade. When mangos are ripe, it’s common to find them lying on the sidewalks. Residents collect and eat them, I’m told they are very good. However, there is a downside to the mango trees. Locals and visitors alike have been injured by falling mangos. Cars have also been dented and windshields broken. If an auto is covered by the optional comprehensive insurance, damage from mangos is covered. Without this insurance or if the policy has a high deductible, the owner is responsible.

That’s the story of the mango trees. They are one of the many things that make Belém unique.

Mangal das Garças

After breakfast, Cornelio walked with me to the Basilica. While waiting I snapped photos of people adding prayer ribbons to the fence and stopping to pray as they passed the open doors to the Basilica. Belém is a city with a strong Catholic tradition. It was evident in the many people who stopped at the Basilica at any given day or time.

Soon the bus and our guide, Marcus, arrived. Our first destination was the Mangal das Graças Ecological Park (also known as the Mangrove of the Heron) near the waterfront. This park was established in 2005 near the river and the historic center of Belém to represent the many ecosystems and flora and fauna of the surrounding area. They also protect and rehab animals that are captured or mistreated with the goal of releasing them back into the wild. The park provides educational programs to increase awareness of the importance of wild animals and their ecosystems. Since its development, it has become a major attraction in Belém.

Upon entering the park, I noticed the wide open spaces and the relaxed atmosphere. We saw a lot of birds including the park’s namesake, the big white graça (heron). There were  lots of them and they seemed to enjoy posing for photos. Below are a few photos I took. Aren’t they elegant birds?

In addition to the plentiful herons, we saw several parrots and parakeets. Even thought it was mid-morning, the sun was warm. They found respite in the shade of the trees.

Theses flamingos are partially a pinkish color that comes from aquatic invertebrates that carry carotene. The more carotene, the pinker the flamingos become.

Here’s a special bird that tried to hide deep in its shelter. This is the speculated owl, the only owl found in the Amazon forest. It’s distinguished by the white markings on its face and the bright yellow-orange eyes. This specimen was small but they can grow quite large. 

The iguanas were plentiful too. The iguana in the first photo appears to be missing the end of his tail. 

We saw a number of butterflies, there was even a butterfly enclosure.

There were numerous turtles in the water features. The second photo of the feeding of the turtles was taken from the Belém tower.

The flora was equally as interesting. Lots of flowers, shrubs, and trees.

This tree, the Açacu, contains a substance that is poisonous. This substance is used by the indigenous population to immobilize fish, on arrowheads, and as an insecticide. I chose not to get too close!

There was a museum on the grounds that did an excellent job of describing the history of Brazil. Another plus it was nice and cool on the warm, sunny day. After the museum, we rode the elevator to the observation deck of what is known as the Belém Lighthouse.

The view of the park, the city, and the river from the top was stunning.

I had an enjoyable time at this park and highly recommend it if you find yourself in Belém.

Pará Gem Museum and Jewelry Center

From the ecological park we went to the Pará Gem Museum and Jewelry Center. The museum used to be the jail run by the Portuguese. We started in the chapel where prisoners would come to pray and repent before being led out to the courtyard and executed. If those wall could talk!

We entered the museum that displayed many precious stones from the Amazon region. We saw diamonds, opals, amethyst, gold, fossilized trees and many others. This was an interesting and enjoyable tour. I should mention that much of the mining of precious stones was done by slaves or indentured servants.

We were directed to the jewelry center where there were several shops that sold jewelry. I wasn’t interested so wandered into an area where they sold art work made by local artisans.

There was also a display of posters (in Portuguese) about sexism, racism, and the women who fought against these isms. I could tell a lot by the pictures and illustrations.

Bol Nova Churrascaria

It was lunch time and our Friendship Force hosts took us to another buffet with lots of choices of meat. The restaurant was huge with nearly every table filled with diners. The food was excellent but the noise level high. It was so loud I couldn’t hear the person sitting across from me. My ears were plugged but I could still hear the din of conversations, the clinking of silverware and plates. 

After lunch Maria walked me back to my hosts apartment. It was only a long block. From their back balcony, I could see the restaurant. My Traveling Partner was better but not well enough to attend the Farewell Party. We stayed in for the evening and enjoyed another visit with our hosts.

Basilica Nossa Senhora de Nazaré do Desterro

The next morning, my Traveling Partner was feeling better, good enough for a bit of breakfast and some tea. Our hostess, Nazaré, took us by car the short distance to the Basilica. Our first stop was at the Museum of Cirio de Nazaré that details the history and significance of the religious festival of the same name. This festival has been held annually during the second week of October since the late 1700s and attracts over two million participants.

Although devotion to the Virgin Mary has always been central to the Catholic faith, it took on a special significance for the people of Belém after a peasant discovered a small statue of the Virgin near a stream. He brought it home, cleaned it, and placed it on an altar. According to legend, the statue mysteriously returned to the spot where it had been found. After this happened several times, the man built a small chapel on that very site—where the Basilica now stands. This story was featured in the first display we saw upon entering the museum.

In October there are 11 official processions including one on the water as part of the Cirio de Nazaré festival. The rope is an important part of the Cirio processions. The rope is attached to the carriage that carries the symbols of the procession. Men, women, and children line up to move the carriage as a sacrifice and portraying devotion to the Virgin Mary. It is also common to see people carry objects made of wood or wax representing graces sought from the Virgin. Some devotees walk barefoot and some on their knees to show sacrifice.

Below is an explanation and the statue that is transported in the procession.

Each year a new mantle covers the statue, it’s considered a work of art. 

An artists depiction of the procession that ends at the Basilica.

Other artwork and posters devoted to the Cirio.

After our time in the museum, we walked over to the Basilica where Marcus gave us a tour of the interior. Built in 1909 it’s patterned after the Basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Walls in Rome. Two spires were added to the Basilica in Belém upon decree by the local government. In front of the Basilica is a large open piazza that is used during the Cirio and other festivals.

The interior is beautiful with stained glass windows, a wood ceiling harvested from the Amazon region, and gold encrusted statuary. Marcus did an excellent job of sharing the interesting features of the church.

Back outside, we purchased prayer ribbons as a symbol of faith and devotion. These were tied to the fence. Even I, a skeptic, joined in this symbolic gesture wishing for peace in the world especially Ukraine.

A final farewell

Back at our host’s apartment, we rested and finished packing. They would take us to the airport late that evening, our flight to São Paolo left at 2:30 AM! After a short layover, we boarded a Delta flight to Atlanta and arrived back in Madison in the late evening. Nearly a full day of traveling.

We had a wonderful time in Brazil. Rio de Janeiro and Iguazu Falls were awesome. Our Friendship Force home stays in Belo Horizonte and Belém where we made friends with super nice people. We’ll always remember the energy of the music and dancing. I would be remiss not mentioning the wonderful food especially the fresh fruit. Thanks to all for a great time.

Join me next week for another Friendship Force journey, this time to Birmingham, Alabama.

Now for the five senses plus one.

Saw – birds, iguanas, turtles, butterflies, and other animals at the ecological park, the city from the tower, boats on the river

Heard – the sound of birds, traffic, people talking, silverware and dishing clanging, the buzzing of motorcycles

Touched – the walls of the jail, hand rails, shook hands with others

Smelled – animal smells, food cooking, street smells, exhaust fumes, baking bread

Tasted – good food at the restaurant, shrimp and rice with jambu, acai with tapioca and sugar (very good)

Learned – about birds and animals of the Para state, history of Brazil, about mining in the Amazon and Brazil, learned about Cirio de Nazare

Until next week, happy travels!

Tom

PS: Click here for a link to the post about my book “Farm Boy.” Contact me if you are interested in purchasing a copy. Thanks to all have plunked down your hard earned dollars and read the book. TM

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