Today’s post is 1350 words, 24 photos, a 7 minute read. Enjoy!
Hi everyone,
In this week’s post, I’ll take you on a walking tour of Bath with an energetic and knowledgable guide, Jess. She’ll take us to the Bath Abbey, Sally Lunn’s, Roman Baths, and the Pump House, and past the Bath War Memorial. Travel along as Jess tells us some of the interesting history of Bath and when she repeats the phase: “I have lots more to tell you but we must move on!” And off she goes with 20 or so people in a trot to keep up with her.
If you missed the first post in this series, click here.
A Walk with Jess
We met Jess in the square in front of the Bath Abbey. She was the tour guide for Bath Public Walking Tours, a company that offers tours in the Bath vicinity. This was a group tour that I booked a few weeks before leaving home. The tour cost was £20 pounds or about $26.50 USD per person. We did an add on tour of the interior of the Bath Abbey for an addition £20 pounds per person. More about that next week.
I should mention that the Mayor of Bath offers free walking tours of Bath led by volunteer guides. For more information click on Bathguides.org.uk.
Here’s Jess sharing her vast knowledge of Bath with the 20 people in her group from places near and far.
We began the tour in front of the Bath Abbey, officially known as The Abbey Church of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. It was in 676 that a Christian Convent was established on this site and about 100 years later handed over to the monks of St. Peter’s monetary. In 1090, a Norman cathedral is built to be be replaced in 1499 by the present Abbey. It’s dissolved as a Catholic church after the Protestant Reformation and later becomes the parish church (Church of England) for the city of Bath. The Abbey has undergone several renovations over the years.
Jess pointed out some of the exterior architectural features such as the use of limestone from quarries around Bath. It is built in the architectural style of Perpendicular Gothic, common in England during the Late Middle Ages (1300-1500).
The next two photos feature cravings of angels climbing ladders that are said to represent the bridge between heaven and earth.
This carving is of King Henry VII who restored power and stability to the monarchy following a civil war. He did a lot for the wool industry particularly important to the area around Bath and the Cotswolds to the north. He restored the Bishop of Bath and thus merited a prominent place over the main entrance to the church.
This olive tree carving represents the name of Bishop Oliver King. The olive tree symbolizes Oliver and a crown symbolizes a King. The mitre represents a bishop. It’s a remind to all that he inspired the rebuilding of the Abbey in 1499.
These heavy wooden doors date from the 16th century. 
After Jess’s lively discussion of the Bath Abbey, she announced: “I have more to tell you but we must move on.”
Sally Lunn’s
Our next stop was at Sally Lunn’s, the oldest surviving house in Bath built in 1482. Sally Lunn (real name Solange Luyon) a Huguenot refuge from France came to Bath and worked in a bakery. She began making brioche like festival bread that she missed from her homeland. It became so popular that people came to Bath to try the bread. After she passed, it was thought the recipe was lost. Many years later it was discovered in a box in the attic of the house. Now visitors can enjoy a taste of the original recipe by taking afternoon tea where Sally Lunn once lived. My Traveling Partner and I returned the next day to give it a try, I had the half hot sweet bun with lemon curd. It was delicious as advertised.
Near Sally Lunn’s is a small park with a large tree, the Giant Plane Tree, a cross between an American Sycamore and an Oriental Plane Tree. Jess asked us to look around, this tree is surrounded by buildings. Fans of the Bridgerton television series will recognize this scene. The tree was planted as a sapling in 1793 and now shades nearly the entire plaza. There are stories that this was a hanging tree but mostly debunked by local historians. 
Jess pointed out The Crystal Palace as a fine place to eat and drink in Bath.
The Roman Baths
The next stop on our tour was at the Roman Bath. The Romans occupied the island of Great Britain from 43 AD to 410 AD, nearly 400 years. In Bath, they created a public bath using the waters of the natural hot springs. After the Romans left, the baths were in ruins, lost to silting and flooding. The was initially forgotten until the 1700s when Bath was becoming a fashionable resort for both the aristocrats and the common folks. They baths were eventually rediscovered and reopened. The Roman Bath is now a museum with an entry fee.
Jess walked a few blocks away to what is commonly called the Queen’s Bath. The story goes like this: Anne of Denmark, the wife of James VI (of Scotland) and I (of England and Ireland) came to Bath seeking relief from ailments in the natural minerals springs. She first bathed in the King’s Bath where she was frightened by the flame of natural gas that ignited in her presence. She then exclusively bathed at the New Bath or Queen’s bath pictured below.
The Pump Room
We passed the Pump Room that originated from the popularity of drinking the city’s thermal waters. People believed the water had medicinal properties. According to Jess, the Pump Room became the place where visitors to Bath came to register and pay their fees. Anyone could register even commoners who afford the fees. This granted them the same privileges as the wealthy, access to the baths, the library, and other amenities. The Pump Room became one of the social centers of Bath. For Jane Austen fans, the Pump Room was used as a setting in a couple of her novels. It’s now an upscale restaurant. But we must move on.
The Tale of Beau Nash
On our walking tour, Jess stopped in front of the plaque announcing that this building was once the home of Beau Nash, “The King of Bath.” Jess admitted that Nash is one of her favorite Bath characters to talk about.
After failing to succeed in school, the military, and as a lawyer, Richard “Beau” Nash finally found his calling as the Master of Ceremonies of Bath, he held this position for nearly 60 years. He was an 18th century dandy and socialite and had a profound influence on the city of Bath, transforming it into a fashionable epicenter of Georgian society.
As Master of Ceremonies, Nash played a key role in orchestrating the city’s social life, setting strict standards for etiquette and behavior that brought order and elegance to its gatherings. He helped establish Bath as a destination for the upper classes, encouraging improvements in architecture, such as the development of the Assembly Rooms and the promotion of Palladian-style buildings. His efforts also made Bath more inclusive by creating events that allowed the aristocracy and emerging middle class to mingle, fostering a unique social atmosphere. Nash’s legacy endures in the refined character and cultural significance of Bath as a historic spa town. When he died in 1761, he was interred in the Bath Abbey.
Bath War Memorial
Near the entrance to the Royal Victoria Park is the Bath War Memorial. Jess made a point of stopping and pointing out the memorial, every town and village in the British Commonwealth has one. Originally, it honored the many who gave their lives in World War I. Later the names of those who perished in World War II and other conflicts were added. Nearly 1200 men from Bath were killed in WWI and over 600 in WWII. It’s sobering to think of all the lives lost, the futures blunted in service to their country. I came back after the tour to take more photos and read some of the many names. May they rest in peace.
On that somber note, that’s enough for this week. I’ll pick up the rest of Jess’s tour next week.
Until then, happy travels!
Tom
PS: Click here for a link to the post about my book “Farm Boy.” Contact me if you are interested in purchasing a copy. Thanks to all have plunked down your hard earned dollars and read the book. TM