Today’s post is 950 words, 16 photos, a 5-minute read. Enjoy!
Hi everyone,
This week I’ll take you to the Kloster Andechs, a Benedictine monastery in the rolling hills southwest of Munich. There we’ll see the Baroque-style church and the famous brewery.
Before we start on our journey, and if you missed earlier episodes in this series, check out the links below.
Vienna here and here; Regensburg, here and here; Neckargemund; Mosel Valley here and here; The Rhine River and Bonn; Julich here and here; Cologne, and Munich here.
Kloster Andechs
It was a chilly Sunday morning when Wayne and I set out in our trusty rental car for the Andechs Monastery near Lake Ammersee. We considered other touring options, but this one met our needs after spending the previous day at Dachau. Besides being emotionally drained, it was the last day we would have the car, and we were a couple of days away from heading back home.
The Kloster Andechs is perched on Bavaria’s Holy Mountain, not because it’s high, but because of what it holds. In 955, several sacred relics associated with saints and Christ were brought from Rome and the Holy Land to the mountain. Soon, pilgrims began making their way to the Holy Mountain seeking spiritual comfort, healing, and maybe a miracle. The relics were lost for a period of time and rediscovered in 1388. Again, the Andechs flourished and later became a Benedictine monastery. It survived the Reformation, wars, and the temporary suspension of monastic life in the early 1800s. Today, the Andechs and the Holy Mountain remain places of history, faith, and hospitality.
According to Rick Steves, Andechs has the best beer in Bavaria. That’s saying a lot; there are between 600 and 700 breweries in Bavaria. I only tried a few, and they were all pretty darn good. The brewing of beer at Andechs began in medieval times, when water was unsafe to drink. Beer was cleaner and more reliable for monks and travelers. When the Benedictines took over Andechs in 1455, brewing became part of monastic life. The sale of beer helped the monks support the local community and the many pilgrims who came to the Holy Mountain. Over time, with refinement of the brewing process and the use of high-quality ingredients, Andechs earned a reputation as a brewer of exceptional beer. Beers are still brewed according to time-honored traditions. Andechs is the only monastery in Germany with a brewery run by monks.
Climbing the Holy Mountain
When we pulled into the large parking lot at about 11 AM, we were astounded by how full it was. There were many tour buses, some from Italy, others from nearby countries.
Even as we began the climb up the hill, many people were doing the same thing. 
We stopped along the way to catch our breath and admire the whimsical sculptures in the well-tended gardens. 
There were sheep grazing in a small paddock along the stairs. They appeared to be used to pilgrims, never once glancing our way while nibbling on the grass. 
Dreihostienfest
We wondered why there were so many people at Andechs. Yes, it’s a pilgrimage site for Catholics, but they also have an excellent food hall, and of course, there is the beer. On the day of our visit, it was also the Festival of the Three Hosts (Dreihostienfest). This festival commemorates the three sacred hosts that were among the religious relics brought from Rome. Two of the hosts were said to originate from Pope Gregory the Great (served 590-604) and Pope Leo IX (served 1049-1054). During the festival, the relics are paraded around the base of the mountain following a festival service.
We caught a bit of the service. It began outside, then moved into the ornate pilgrimage church dedicated to St. Nicholas of Myra and St. Elizabeth of Thuringia. This church was rebuilt in the 1700s and is filled with colorful ceiling paintings, gold-covered altars, and detailed plasterwork. Everything inside was designed to inspire awe and devotion in the visiting pilgrims. I say it meets that goal, I think you’ll agree.
While the service was underway inside, the band patiently waited outside to lead the procession after the service concluded. 
Braüstüberl
After wandering around the grounds checking out the sites, it was time for lunch and a beer. The food line at the Braüstürberl (brewery tavern) was quite long, especially the line for the signature dish, Schweinhaxe, roasted pork knuckle with crisp crackling skin and tender meat. The portions were huge! And they are sold by the kilo. I opted for a shorter line and ordered a couple of sausages and coleslaw. After I found an unoccupied seat in the crowded outdoor seating area, I tucked into the delicious, filling meal.
Since I was driving, I chose Andechser Hell non-alcoholic pale lager. It was the first NA beer brewed by the monastery. The taste was wonderful, and I enjoyed it a lot.
It was mid-afternoon when we headed back towards Munich. We did drive past the large lake, but it was too chilly and overcast to stop for photos. We enjoyed our time at the monastery. Make sure to put this on your agenda should you find yourself in Bavaria. Bring your appetite, thirst, and definitely your camera.
But before I go……
THE FIVE SENSES PLUS ONE
Saw – church at the top of Holy Mountain, lots of people, sheep, many Italians returning from Oktoberfest
Heard – church bells ringing, German band playing, priest chanting, people singing hymns
Touch – wooden and metal railings, a stone wall
Smell – incense, food cooking, body odor from those standing near me
Taste – good sausages, non-alcoholic beer
Learned – about the Feast of 3 hosts, Benedictines have been at Andechs a long time, they make good beer
Until next week, happy travels!
Tom
PS: Click here for a link to the post about my book “Farm Boy.” Contact me if you are interested in purchasing a copy. Thanks to all have plunked down your hard earned dollars and read the book. TM